You know that moment in myths when gods punch a hole through the earth? That’s Heaven Lake. Nestled in the crater of a sleeping volcano on the China-North Korea border- Changbai Mountain, this 2,194-meter-high lake shifts from cobalt blue to gunmetal gray in minutes, as if mood-swinging with the heavens. Locals say it’s home to a water dragon—and after seeing its mist-shrouded waters, you’ll half-believe them.
Why It’s Supernatural
Formed by a colossal 946 AD eruption (the planet’s biggest in 2,000 years), Heaven Lake is equal parts beauty and danger. The surrounding Changbai Mountain Range hides:
- Hot Springs that boil eggs in 10 minutes (try them at Changbai Waterfall’s vendor stalls).
- Underground Forests where 300-year-old pines grow beneath volcanic rocks.
- North Slope Mysteries: A concrete bunker marks the North Korean side—don’t wave, soldiers are watching.
Prime Time: June-September. Winter visits? Possible but risky—blizzards close roads weekly.
Getting There: Borderland Logistics
No direct flights from major cities. Here’s the pilgrimage:
- Fly to Yanji (YNJ):
- From Beijing/Shanghai via Shenyang or Changchun.
- Take a 4hr bus to Baihe Town (gateway to the North Slope). Warning: Buses stop at 3 PM—miss it, and you’re hitchhiking.
- Train to Antu County:
- Overnight trains from Changchun (8hrs) to Songjianghe Station.
- Hire a shared van (¥50) to the West Slope entrance.
- Daredevil Route:
Drive from Harbin (8hrs) through Manchurian forests. Stop at Jingpo Lake—its hexagonal rock columns look like Satan’s pipe organ.
Inside the Park: Dodge the Dragon’s Wrath
The lake’s mood swings dictate your luck. Maximize visibility with these moves:
Day 1: North Slope Gambit
- Enter at 6:30 AM (first bus beats 90% of crowds).
- Ride the snow-truck-style shuttle up 72 hairpin turns. At the peak, walk 1.2km along the crater rim—Korean border fences on your left.
- Checkpoint: Park staff block the trail if winds hit 10m/s. Bribe the weather gods beforehand.
Day 2: West Slope Wilderness
- Take the 1442-step staircase (or electric cart for ¥80) to the lake’s quieter side.
- Hike down to Wangchi Pool, an emerald pond where volcanic gases still bubble.
Secret Bonus: At Erdaobaihe Town, rent a bike and pedal to Juhua Lake at dusk. Thousands of migrating swans stop here in October.
Sleep & Eat: Volcanic Edition
- Luxury: Changbaishan International Hotel (West Slope) has sulfur hot spring baths. Ask for Room 607—private view of the crater.
- Budget: Mountain Youth Hostel in Baihe serves wild mushroom stew so thick, your spoon stands upright.
- Food Alert: Try ginseng chicken soup at Lao Li’s Farmhouse. Avoid “lake fish” dishes—they’re farmed downstream.
Survival Kit
- Altitude Sickness: The summit hits 2,749m. Buy oxygen cans (¥30) at visitor centers—cheaper than hospitals.
- Cash Rules: Cards work nowhere. ATMs in Baihe dispense ¥100 bills; break them at noodle shops.
- Borderline Behavior: Never toss trash toward the North Korean side. Guards have binoculars and short tempers.
- Weather Whiplash: July temps swing from 25°C (77°F) at base to 5°C (41°F) at the lake. Pack gloves AND sunscreen.
Final Truth
Heaven Lake is a diva—it hides in clouds 265 days a year. Locals joke you need “three bows to Buddha” to see it: bow at the airport, bow at the bus station, bow at the trailhead. But when the mist parts and that perfect blue oval appears, you’ll feel like you’ve hacked reality. Skip the selfie stick (wind gusts are vicious), bring binoculars to spot North Korean patrol boats, and whisper your wishes to the dragon. Just don’t expect answers.
Fun fact: In 1983, a Chinese scientist claimed he saw a 20-meter “lake monster.” They still sell plush toy versions at the gift shop.