Hangzhou Highlight-Hangzhou, often called “Heaven on Earth” by the Chinese, is one of those places that feels like it was made for wandering. I still remember the first time I stood by West Lake, watching the mist roll over the water as boats glided silently by—it was like stepping into a painting. Just a short trip from Shanghai, Hangzhou offers a peaceful escape with its lush landscapes, rich history, and slow-paced charm. Whether you’re here to sip tea, explore ancient temples, or simply soak in the beauty, this city has a way of making you feel at home. Let me take you through everything you need to know to make the most of your visit.
Where Is It? Geography and Population
Hangzhou sits in the heart of Zhejiang Province, about 180 kilometers (112 miles) southwest of Shanghai—close enough for a quick getaway but far enough to feel like a different world. It’s nestled along the southern end of the Grand Canal, the world’s longest man-made waterway, and is cradled by rolling hills and tea plantations. The star of the show is West Lake, a UNESCO World Heritage site that’s been inspiring poets and artists for centuries. With around 10 million people, Hangzhou is a bustling city, but it never feels overwhelming. The locals are warm and laid-back, and there’s a growing expat community drawn to its blend of modern amenities and traditional charm.
What’s the Weather Like?
Hangzhou’s subtropical climate means you’ll experience four distinct seasons, each with its own flavor. Summers (June to August) are hot and humid, with temperatures often hitting 35°C (95°F)—perfect for a shady stroll around the lake but sweaty for much else. Winters (December to February) are milder than you’d expect, hovering around 5-10°C (40-50°F), though the dampness can make it feel cooler.
Spring and autumn are the sweet spots. In spring (March to May), the city blooms with peach blossoms and cherry trees, while autumn (September to November) brings crisp air and golden leaves. If you can, visit in April or October—the weather’s just right, and the crowds are thinner. One tip: Hangzhou gets its fair share of rain, especially in early summer, so pack a light raincoat or umbrella.
Food That’ll Steal Your Heart
Hangzhou’s cuisine is all about fresh, delicate flavors that let the ingredients shine. Here are a few dishes you can’t leave without trying:
- Dongpo Pork: Named after the poet Su Dongpo, this is melt-in-your-mouth braised pork belly, glazed in a sweet and savory sauce. I had it at a lakeside restaurant, and it was pure comfort on a plate.
- West Lake Fish in Vinegar Gravy: A whole fish bathed in a tangy-sweet sauce, inspired by the lake itself. It’s light, flavorful, and a little bit magical.
- Beggar’s Chicken: Legend has it a beggar created this dish by wrapping a chicken in lotus leaves and baking it in clay. The result? Juicy, aromatic meat that falls off the bone.
And then there’s the tea. Hangzhou is the birthplace of Longjing (Dragon Well) tea, one of China’s finest green teas. You can visit the plantations in the hills, sip a cup by the lake, or pick some up as a souvenir. I still have a tin at home, and every sip takes me back to those misty mornings.
Sights You Can’t Miss
Hangzhou’s attractions are a mix of natural beauty and cultural gems. Here’s where to start:
- West Lake: The crown jewel of Hangzhou. Rent a bike and cycle around its shores, or hop on a boat to visit the tiny islands dotting the water. Don’t miss the Leifeng Pagoda at sunset—it’s postcard-perfect.
- Lingyin Temple: Tucked in the hills, this ancient Buddhist temple is one of China’s oldest. The carvings on the nearby Feilai Peak are just as stunning, with hundreds of Buddhas etched into the rock.
- Hefang Street: A lively pedestrian street where you can snack on street food, shop for silk scarves, or watch artisans make candy sculptures. I got lost here for hours, and it was bliss.
- Grand Canal: Take a cruise along the world’s longest canal, which stretches all the way to Beijing. The night views, with lanterns reflecting on the water, are pure romance.
For a quieter escape, head to the Xixi Wetland Park. It’s a peaceful maze of waterways and forests, where you can spot birds and forget you’re in a city.
A Culture That Dazzles
Hangzhou’s culture is steeped in history, art, and a deep connection to nature. Silk production has been a big deal here since the days of the Silk Road, and you can still visit workshops to see how it’s made. The China National Silk Museum is a hidden gem if you’re curious about the process. Traditional Chinese medicine also has roots here—stop by the Hu Qing Yu Tang Pharmacy, a beautifully preserved shop that’s been around since 1874.
The city’s love for tea is another cultural cornerstone. You’ll find teahouses on every corner, where locals gather to chat, play chess, or just watch the world go by. I spent an afternoon at one by the lake, nursing a cup of Longjing and feeling like time had slowed down.
Catch a Performance
Hangzhou’s performances are a window into its soul. The Impression West Lake show is a must-see—staged right on the lake, it’s a mesmerizing blend of music, dance, and lights that tells the story of Hangzhou’s legends. I watched it on a cool evening, and the way the performers seemed to walk on water still gives me chills.
For something more traditional, check out a Yue opera performance. It’s a softer, more melodic style of Chinese opera, often performed in historic venues around the city. Even if you don’t understand the words, the emotion comes through loud and clear.
Getting Around Made Easy
Hangzhou’s transportation is a dream for visitors. The metro is clean, efficient, and has English signage—perfect for getting to major spots like West Lake or the train station. Buses are plentiful too, though they can be tricky without some Mandarin skills.
For shorter trips, grab a bike from one of the many bike-sharing apps (like HelloBike or Mobike)—Hangzhou is flat and bike-friendly, with paths around the lake and through the city. Taxis are easy to find and fairly cheap, but traffic can snarl up during rush hour. If you’re heading to the tea villages or wetlands, consider a Didi (China’s Uber) for convenience.
Why You’ll Love Hangzhou
Hangzhou has a way of making you slow down and savor the moment. It’s the kind of place where you can spend hours watching the sunset over West Lake, or lose yourself in a temple’s quiet courtyard, and feel like you’ve found a slice of peace. Whether you’re here for the food, the history, or just to breathe in the fresh air, Hangzhou will charm you with its beauty and grace. So pack your bags, bring your sense of wonder, and get ready to fall in love with one of China’s most enchanting cities. You’ll leave with memories that feel like a dream—and maybe a tin of tea to keep the magic alive.